The Muslim Headscarf Taking Over The Runway

Written by Laila Musleh

Graphics by Wendy Lan

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2019 was a groundbreaking and a stereotype shattering year for the fashion industry. The 2019 fashion weeks carried the most diversity that has ever been witnessed on runways and the audience was met with models of all characteristics; varying from Muslim models, models with disabilities, to all racial backgrounds and models of all sizes. This diverse representation dismantled the exhausted standard the industry had set for decades: white, tall, skinny, eurocentric features...we’ve all seen it. As an Arab and Muslim girl growing up in a western society, this “status quo” became tiring and undoubtedly unachievable. As I grew to understand my culture, community, and religion further, and proudly embraced my heritage, the lack of representation became transparent as I readily flipped through the hundreds of magazine pages. The recurring face and body proved how the industry’s standard of beauty was overrated. Thus, witnessing the waves of diverse characteristics take over the runways broke down conventional beauty and highlighted that the “standard” is unrealistic, racist, fatphobic, and that beauty is absolutely subjective. 

In that year, the Somali-American activist and model Halima Aden made history on the pages of Sports Illustrated. She was the first model to wear a hijab in the magazine; she was featured in a burkini. A burkini combines a burqa and a bikini; it’s a swimsuit that covers the body except the face, hands, and feet allowing Muslim women to maintain their modesty and religious obligation, while also empowering their freedom in athletic activities. “I never really felt represented because I never could flip through a magazine and see a girl who was wearing a hijab” she emphasized. Beyond Sports Illustrated, Halima was the first hijab-wearing model to be on the cover of Vogue and Essence Magazine, and gain features in the pages of Allure, Vogue Arabia, and Teen Vogue. Considering Halima’s growing recognition by fashion publications, she became the representation she yearned to find as a little girl for the numerous Muslim girls today.

Alongside Halima, two of 2019’s most talked about models: Feriel Moulai, and Ugbad Abdi, broke barriers as they strutted down runways wearing their headscarves. 

Algerian model Feriel Moulai walked for the Paris label Koche founded by Christele Kocher at Paris Fashion Week. Loose orange pants paired with a sequined top and veil matching in color emphasized that modesty is not a barrier to achieving creative and individualistic expression in clothing. Crediting her stylists, Feriel explained, “stylists are making the world a place where anyone can be themselves, and feel comfortable.”. Her success as a model ensures that religion and choice to wear a veil is not an obstacle in achieving their highest potential in their fashion choices. 

Somali model Ugbad Abdi was “breaking boundaries in Paris” (Vogue). She was one of the first models to wear a headscarf for some of the biggest and most celebrated names in fashion; In Paris, she walked for Valentino, and was then featured in Burberry, Lanvin, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, and Fendi shows. Abdi continued to make a name for herself as she was the show opener for Marc Jacobs and Micheal Kors at New York Fashion Week. Becoming a national success at a young age; “wearing the hijab gave me a voice...I even get people who don’t wear the hijab telling me I inspire them. That’s a huge honor for me because when I was younger, I needed that inspiration.” she explained. Abdi’s success challenges the stereotypes continuously placed upon Muslim women; usually perceived to be oppressed and “old fashioned”.  She stated, “I can only hope to change the narrative and ignorance Muslim women face daily… this gives me a chance to educate people.”

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Halima Aden, Feiriel Mouali, and Ugbad Abdi, through their influence, created industry-changing waves. They are part of a new generation of models including other Muslim women: Khadija Diawara, Ikram Abdi Omar, and Amina Abdan, who are currently leading the conversations about inclusivity within the fashion industry. 

Lately, in fashion, we’ve become increasingly concerned with diversity and inclusivity within the industry. Yet, in most cases, we forget to address why inclusivity for underrepresented groups is CRUCIAL! After decades of fashion publications convincing society that “beautiful” was a skinny white woman, it created generations of false perceptions, judgments, low self-esteem, never-ending pursuit of unrealistic goals for the many cultures, races, religions, sizes, and identities to grace this earth. To truly diversify the industry, we have to normalize the presence of ALL types of models and influencers, then will we be able to redefine beauty, celebrate ourselves and our differences, and learn about the truths of the many groups represented. 

My experience living in the US has introduced me to depictions and ideas that truly contradict the reality of Muslims in the world. Stereotypes paint Muslim clothing to be oppressing, illiberal, restricting, and monolithic; when in reality, the hijab and modest fashion are as evolving, diverse, versatile, and individualistic as that of western trends; veils and headscarves exist in many styles, varying from traditional style to french style to turban style. What to wear with a headscarf? Modest fashion comes in all shapes and forms, and this may come as a shock to some, but modest fashion can simply be a collection of today’s current trends. Expanding and normalizing representations of Muslim women in fashion will break down the renderings that Muslim women are a homogenous group in appearance and clothing, and it will amplify the individuality of each woman. 

Afterall, fashion is used and is seen by all, and doesn't "all" include women of all backgrounds? As emerging citizens and leaders in the fashion industry, it's important to remember that the fashion industry is not structured only to accommodate skinny white women, it's an industry made for the human race (inclusivity for every race, religion, culture, identity, size, style, status...) The undeniably iconic Halima Aden said “Don’t change yourself...Change the GAME!! Being in Sports Illustrated is so much bigger than me. It’s sending a message to my community and the world that women of all different backgrounds, looks, upbringings...can stand together.”.

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