love is love, even in fashion
Written by Laila Musleh
Graphics by Jade
From it’s birth, the queer community has been shape shifting, cutting edges, and defining the corners of the fashion industry. From Christian Dior to Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent who have publicly identified as a part of the LGBTQ+ community, for decades, they've been redefining sexuality in fashion. They’ve created a world where clothing is genderless and individualistic in identity; “These designers are creating a world where fashion is not for men or for women, but for feeling seen”. Take Yves Saint Laurent for example, in 1966, within a society that frowned upon women exhibiting any “masculine” behavior, he introduced Le Smoking tuxedo for women; he introduced to women a suit that was reserved for society's prominent men. The tuxedo was met with great shock, yet, it aligned with women’s empowerment movements for liberation. The suit tuxedos inspired generations of pantsuits worn by women; they’ve evolved to exist in a form of lingerie, “Masculine” cuts, or simply a classic.
Considering it’s Pride Month, I believe it’s important to stimulate conversation and celebrate the LGBTQ+ community, especially individuals who are continuously inspiring societal growth, whether that be in the arts, politics, education, sports, or belief systems. Pride Month is a reminder to always speak up, bring to light, and admire the lives of the community.
Here I’ve curated a list of a fraction of the LGBTQ+ fashion designers who are currently gracing the industry with their talents.
From Lady Gaga to Cardi B: CHRISTIAN COWAN
Christian Cowan wasn’t born into a kind world; his childhood consisted of running away from home, struggling with his sexuality, and overdosing. Despite his heartbreaking circumstances, Cowan’s talents did not go unseen. His creativity was undeniable as he completed his fashion design degree at two of the most prominent fashion schools in the world: Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion. During his university years, Cowan had already gained recognition by celebrities including Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus, and Cardi B. In an interview with writer Landon Peoples, Cowan explained how his school projects would land on the bodies of those celebrities, if that's not every fashion design student’s dream, I don't know what is.
Cowan has worked with Cardi B a dozen of times, he was the face behind Cardi’s checkered look on her debut album Invasion Of Privacy. Achieving his lifelong dream, Cowan had the opportunity to dress Lady Gaga; In 2014, Lady Gaga strutted down the streets in a fully glittered pink suit designed by him. "When I made my first few outfits, I was listening to her the whole time. And then she wore the outfit! It was a full-circle moment.” he explained.
Shortly after completing his fashion design degree and moving to New York City, Christian Cowan was featured in New York Fashion Week for multiple seasons. He started with a mini dress featuring a portrait of Caitlyn Jenner at the show in Pier 59 studios, to ultimately having a traditional show with a larger audience at Spring studios. Cowan explained that any person is eligible to wear his clothing. He emphasized that his pieces are “inclusive, happy, and just meant to bring everyone up... “I’ve gone from the hard, pink, glittery, giant sombrero to a lot of wearable looks. But, at the heart of it, I want it to remain that way and to focus on the joy in the world.”
Designs for Genderless Freedom: AUGUST GETTY
Founder of August Getty Atelier, August Getty is one of the most sought after designers; he’s remembered for dressing celebrities like Bebe Rexha, Lady Gaga, Cher, Jennifer Lopez, and the Kardashians.
August Getty was born into a life populated with the finer things: large boxes from the greatest couriers, timeless couture, and constant surroundings inspiring his creativity and fulfilling his love for art. Getty believes that his success in fashion is credited to his creative talents instead of the success his family had already acquired “even if i was a homeless man, I would take a piece of paper and sketch on it...fashion and I have been intertwined like DNA for a very long time”. He explained.
His talent is undeniable considering he has been featured in New York and Paris Haute Couture Fashion Weeks numerous times. Of course, each collection carries a different meaning and is inspired by different factors, however, all of his work has always been advocating for LGBTQ+ rights and inclusivity. In 2020, Getty created two different collections. During Paris Fashion Week, Getty revealed his collection
“TINITUS” in which he transcends the power fashion and technology hold together. He presented four videos of four couture garments existing in an ethereal world. The pieces were inspired by roman mythology, and spiritual iconology. This collection was to inspire “unity, inclusivity, prosperity, hope, peace, and acceptance.”. His second collection “The White Hart” presented during SS20 was populated with mythical creatures and an ethereal essence. The centerpiece was a voluminous gown with pleated ruffles. Shades of white and gold dominated this collection; Getty explained this collection to be “a beautiful place of enchantment and rebirth… no prejudice, only kindness.”
“Fashion helps people express who they are, and inclusive designs should have endless, genderless freedom and should be created for people of all different races, ethnicities, ages, and identities.” It’s important to note that Getty’s philanthropic work exists beyond his collections. Getty has been involved in the Los Angeles LGBT center, GLAAD, and UNICEF next gen.
Really...What is menswear? KENNETH NICHOLSON
Through his Texan upbringing, fashion education at the San Francisco Academy of Art, and his time serving in the navy, Nicholson was inspired to create clothing that challenges toxic masculinity, and redfines menswear.
Nicholson is deeply infatuated with the Black Diaspora and the cultures that have emerged from it; within his work, he strives to cite historical references. “If I create a minimal pair of white stockings for men in Fall 18, I would want to provoke a dialogue centered around the ridiculous notions of contemporary masculinity by sitting on empirical 17th century data. When you actually observe historical data these problematic conventional arguments surrounding masculinity fall apart.” Kenneth has sent male presenting models down runways in blue velvet suits with diamond drop earrings or even long tunic dresses. His garments normalize the idea that menswear is simply clothing worn by anyone. There is no definition or rule to what makes up menswear. His combination of 70’s menswear and flamboyant detail was spotted by Lil Nas X whom Nicholson dressed for Out Magazine.
Beyond breaking down the conventional standard placed upon menswear, Nicholson yearns to create “feel good” clothing. Nicholson explained “I simply want to create clothing or even artifacts that excite me on some level. I've concluded I will be a designer who just creates.”. Nicholson’s pursuit to create neutral and free spirited garments is inspired by his travels in which he credits for his realization that the human race is so alike “one body of humanity, desiring a full happy life, good food, beautiful clothes, and good music”.
Queer fashion should become everyday fashion: NICOLE ZIZI
Zizi is a Haitian designer and artist raised in Broward County, Florida. She studied at Parsons School of Design where she pursued further knowledge and education on sustainability, pollution, and the true impact of the fashion industry on the environment. At Parsons, Zizi realized that design requires thought far beyond being “cool'', “edgy” and “beautiful”, instead, design requires consideration of the consumer’s wants and needs, thought about the future, and the impact these designs will have environmentally in the long run.
Zizi founded Nicole ZiZi studio, a brand that prides itself on being eco conscious, sustainable, and innovative in creating gender free streetwear and accessories. When she started her brand, she had very little capital to support her growth; she capitalized on the power of social media, word of mouth, and a pop up shop to bring in customers and create a platform for her brand.
For her fabric, Zizi consciously sources recycled material; for example, in some of her garments, she used material gathered from a clean up project that occured in Haiti. Zizi also chooses not to over produce clothing just for the sake of it. She values the time and effort her workers put into manufacturing each individual garment, and provides them with livable wages.
While the manufacturing process of her clothing is eco conscious, her designs dive deeper into her heritage and the black community; to embody her identity and emphasize the gender neutral nature of her clothing, Zizi’s brand is predominantly streetwear. She emphasizes the importance of a gender free presence in the clothing. In her own words “I think queer fashion should become everyday fashion”. Her clothing is made for “"an array of genders and non-binary people, plus size and petite people with different beautiful shapes and sizes of bodies”.
From Lady Gaga’s fashion director to her best friend: BRANDON MAXWELL
Ironically, Brandon Maxwell didn’t initially pursue a career in fashion or design. When he first moved to New York City, he wanted a career in painting, then he transitioned to photography, and only a few years later, did he find himself with a fashion design career. Obviously, he has always yearned for a place to publicly present his artistic expressions. Brandon’s love for art derived from his struggle to find acceptance amongst his peers; “women’s rights and gay rights are really important to me, During the worst times of my life, when I’d go to school thinking I’d be beaten up or something terrible would happen, I retreated into art and the things that made me feel safe. All we can do is be a light in some way.” he explained to W Magazine.
His career consisted of numerous debuts at New York Fashion week, awards including the CFDA, and a hard to beat clientele which includes Michelle Obama, Noami Campbell, Meghan Markle, Karlie Kloss, and his personal favorite Lady Gaga. Undoubtedly, Brandon and Lady Gaga’s relationship exists far beyond being her go to designer and fashion director. Both have created an unbreakable bond “obviously she’s famous, but to me, she’s my best friend” Brandon explained to Harper's Bazaar. Lady Gaga has worn Brandon Maxwell to numerous red carpets; in 2016, she wore a white Brandon Maxwell jumpsuit with a sweetheart neckline. For the 2019 Met Gala, she wore a dramatic, voluminous, and ultimately a massive hot pink gown paired with a giant bow all designed by Brandon himself.
For his 2021 projects, Brandon is making his work more attainable for the average customer; he’s the new creative director for Walmart's fashion brands Scoop and Free Assembly. “The experience of going in and feeling special should not be specific to your location or your income. Everyone should have access to how special fashion can make you feel,” he explained to his brand’s instagram followers. He continued to caption his post with “Closing the gap between the world that I’ve come to know and the world that I come from has long been a dream of mine, and to be able to do it at the store that served so many of my needs growing up is all the more special”