Lion’s Heads, Cult Classics and Minimalism: Fashion Week S/S23

Written by Rana Rastegari

Graphics by Erin Kidd

As usual, Fashion Week kicked off the new year with style. From the surrealist structures at Schiaparelli to the vast number of animal references on the runway this season, the collections have been the talk of the media. But we know that fashion week is a whirlwind so I’ve gathered the most important features of the season for you to know about.

The most debate-inducing collection of the season was, without a doubt, Schiaparelli’s Spring show. Taking inspiration from Dante’s epic “Inferno”, Daniel Roseberry drew a huge amount of media attention, not lacking in criticism, for displaying ultra realistic depictions of animal heads and skins in the collection. Irina Shayk walked the runway in a black a-line off shoulder gown, with an enormous (and terrifyingly realistic) lion’s head on her shoulder. As worn again by Kylie Jenner, it was the subject of controversy and awe all over the media. Shalom Harlow also wore an entirely (faux) leopard skin a-line gown with its head also resting on her shoulder. Roseberry of course confirmed that none of the materials were real animal skin or fur, yet many still viewed the collection as suggesting the animals were game-trophy or objects of mere entertainment. The rest of the collection was a continued ode to Dante’s work, with a black snake neckline on a blazer to reference the serpent that tempted Eve. The gold, the glamor and the surrealist silhouettes alongside the pinstripes and rigid structures were certainly a continuation of Elsa Schiaparelli’s vision for the brand, also. 

Following Alessandro Michele’s much dreaded departure from Gucci, the brand showcased their first collection without Michele’s maximalism. The autumn/winter menswear show, took a sharp turn from the eclectic 70’s feathers and flounce it had been known for during the years with Michele at the helm. The models were dressed in slouchy, khaki, oversized pieces; with a couple nodding to the trend of ‘ballet-core’ as it has become known. Logo details and skinny stonewashed jeans made a comeback as did very low v necklines. 80’s style leather jackets made appearances alongside leg warmers and classically coloured sweaters. As always, the long, pastel blazers were seen on the runway but there is no doubt that the era of Michele at Gucci has come to end. Long gone are the days of disco chic for the luxury brand, it seems.

American psycho meets Emily in Paris. What do you think they talk about? At Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s autumn winter 2023 collection, Lucas Bravo AKA Gabriel, walked down the runway, splattered in fake blood, with slicked back hair and a floor-length coat. The collection as a whole drew inspiration from the cult classic novel American Psycho and Bravo portrayed the ‘psycho’ part of the name very accurately. With a crazed look in his eyes as he strutted the runway, the show immediately became a social media sensation. The rest of the collection depicted models carrying ax and chainsaw bars mirroring the violence of the novel and film and obviously more long coats. 

Remember the tabi boots? They are back and better. Well, depending on who you are. At Margiela, John Galliano added a 10cm heel to the show and covered it in rhinestones. And in another version, created rhinestone covered tabi oxford loafers. So whether you’re going to the office and need to look professional or going for a night out, there’s a tabi boot to help you out. The models strutted the runway with dresses and pants that highlighted the shoes. As for the clothing, tulle was big this season at Margiela as were mesh socks and leggings.

At two shows, Mike Amiri’s and Haider Ackermann at Gaultier, designers showed support for the ongoing revolution and unrest in Iran. Amiri, who is of Iranian descent, presented a collection with hints to early hip-hop and monochromatic styles with backwards caps and loose fitting jeans. He also presented a T-shirt which read “Women, Life Freedom” which is the slogan that has defined the ongoing revolution. At Gaultier, the soundtrack that played throughout the show was Shervin Hajipour’s “Baraye”, the soundtrack and anthem of the people of Iran. Both designers used their platforms to show support to the women in Iran who are fighting for their rights. 

Ultimately, the fashion season came to a close with an enormous amount of media attention and many many opinions. Here’s to another series of collections wrapped up and looking onto the next.