Fashion Month 2022: Everything you need to know about the new season
Written by Rana Rastegari
Graphics by Lily Hobl
Following on from a very strange couple of years, a relatively normal fashion season has just wrapped. For the autumn/winter showings, most designers returned to the runways and it was most definitely a season to remember. From the theatricality on the London Runways to the return of the micro-mania at Milan, the catwalks this season were brimming with bright colours and new trends.
With the shows officially done for the season, and the designers hard at work for the next, scroll down to see the trends and looks that have everyone in a chokehold.
Micro-Mania:
Of course, we have to start with the most major trend of the season. Remember when Paris Hilton said “skirts should be the size of a belt”? Miu Miu and Diesel definately listened. Muicca delivered racy hemlines at Miu Miu and Diesel presented leather belts as skirts alongside denim mini’s. Just high enough to hang at the hips, the low rise element of the ongoing Y2K trend maintained it’s presence on the runways this season, and it partnered with short hemlines to make a statement. At Fendi, the Y2K craze continued as we saw trailered fabrics in mini skirt form, paired with sheer lettuce hem underneath them as an ode to Stephen Burrows’s original design from the 70’s.
Let’s Talk Lingerie:
Forget modesty, this season it’s all about sheer slips, lace and boudoir. Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Bottegga paid homage to the iconic imagery of the brand whilst incorporating the new lingerie-as-clothing trend through sheer slip dresses and Gucci’s collaboration with Adidas displayed sheer clauses with lace detailing. The light fabrics at Fendi referenced Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2000’s collection for the brand but Kim added his own touch to the collection by pairing sheer lingerie with tailored fabrics such as houndstooth and leather.
Keeping it Classic:
With the return of Parisian girl chic styles, classic blouse and jean looks have returned to the runway and to keep up with the trends, designers have been reworking this classic style to fit their own brands. Take Blazy at Bottega as an example; his collection showcased a blouse and a pair of jeans treated with leather to look exactly like denim and cotton. Mathew Williams at Givenchy and Brandon Maxwell also incorporated the timeless look into their shows, with embroidered jeans and structured white tops.
The rise of the Tank:
Who could forget the white tank with the triangular Prada logo donned by Hunter Schafer on the Milan runway? With the shearling trims and white tanks, the collection named ‘The Ideology of Prada’ paid homage to the fall 2006 collection of the brand. It seems that tank tops are all the rage this season, from the sheer rendition at Loewe to the leather BDSM look at Schiaparelli, the tank top is officially high end attire. They appeared as classic, minimal looks at Bevza or more glamorously with flowy maxi skirts at Conner Ives. Basically, the tank top is the new sign of luxury fashion.
Platforms are back:
For decades, platforms have been huge in the fashion world; from David Bowie to the Spice girls and the fashion industry is no stranger to the craze. This season displayed tall, chunky platforms as knee high and ankle boots. Not only popular on the runway, the red carpet is also full of platforms, worn by stars such as Olivia Rodrigo and Kendall Jenner. Versace’s medusa platforms from fall 2021 made a comeback in an edgier, darker style and Rick Owen’s kept up the avant grade tradition of the brand with fleeced, ladder thigh high boots. Peter Do and Givenchy showcased leather and asymmetry in their platforms.
Hot hot hot pink!
Dubbed “the most joyous colour of the season”, hot pink is the most recent colour craze in the industry. Valentino’s strictly pink collection made sure of that, as did Richard Quinn’s coats and hot pink tights. Versace and Fendi also showed their fondness of the colour as did Loewe and Molly Godard with structured coats, boning and corsetry all in bright, eye catching fuschia.
